Thanks to some dry weather – at last! – we’ve been able to get outside and add some Florence fennel, more peas, leeks and potatoes to various parts of the garden. The potatoes we planted a while ago are showing foliage now and when this reaches 10cm to 15cm in height we will draw soil up around the stems so that the leaves show just above the raised soil. This will cover any developing tubers and protect them from exposure to the sun. When potatoes are exposed to sunlight they turn green and become toxic – so this helps to prevent that from happening.

Garlic continues to rock and hand weeding is keeping the growing plants free from competition. Keep an eye on watering as the weeks pass and warmer, drier weather becomes a possibility. To check whether your garlic does need watering or not, stick your finger into the soil and if it feels dry a centimeter or so down then give the bed a good dowsing. The same goes for all plants now growing but try to water at the base of potatoes as water on foliage can help to spread blight.

Whilst stuck indoors over recent weeks we have sowed tomatoes in a seed tray which we are keeping on a sunny windowsill. As the seedlings develop we will transplant them to 10cm pots and then - in about 5 to 7 weeks time – plant them outside in a sunny spot. We have also sowed zucchini and pumpkin seeds and will plant them out too when they are large enough.

Our wormery is starting to rock now and we are feeding the hungry tiger worms with some of our kitchen scraps (for step by step on how set one up see photos). Our main compost bin seems to be keeping a family of rats very well fed and, in spite of all their scoffing, there is still some good looking ‘black gold’ mounting up beneath the layers of decomposing garden and kitchen waste.

The rain has slowed development of a new bed which we have nearly got ready but which needs just a little more digging to break up larger clods. Whilst waiting for this to dry out enough for us to be able to complete the task of setting it up for tomatoes, sweet-corn etc. we have been experimenting with fresh composting. Our aim is to boost the number of helpful micro-organisms and invertebrates within the soil in the bed by feeding it directly with fresh kitchen waste. This simply involves scattering peelings, teabags, coffee grounds and so forth over the ground – no meat, cheese, fish etc. or you may invite more dinner guests than you had bargained for. The idea is that worms need fresh food and whereas previously composted material is nutrient rich it also low on foodstuff- so not much to feed your wormies. Micro-organisms in the soil also need energy-filled matter to help build tissue and previously composted material has already given off a significant amount of energy in the process of breaking down so this does not foster the sort of communities we want in our garden soil. --- To cut through all the wordy tosh, just take a look at leaf litter in the bush, you’ll find foliage on the surface and only a couple of centimeters below dark rich humus crawling with wee beasties along with invisible fungal spores and bacteria all engaging in the carbon and nitrogen cycles. Take a handful of good garden soil by comparison and you are more likely to see far fewer signs of invertebrate and mico-organism activity. To build this up you need to ensure that there are some colonizing communities of worms and wee beasties as well as the fungal spores and bacteria that foster healthy soil. Best way to do this is to add some home-grown compost from your heap – or a mates if you don’t have one yet. Put it directly onto the soil and turn gently in, then slowly add kitchen waste and grass clippings in moderate amounts. This can be increased as evidence of renewed activity within the soil becomes apparent until you effectively have a mulching layer of munchable material surrounding your plants.

Catch you in a couple of weeks!

FRESH COMPOST EXCITES LOCAL BIRDLIFE!

STEP BY STEP WORM COMPOSTING

1. INHERITED WHEELIE BIN

2. TRAY WHICH SITS 350MM FROM BASE OF WHEELIE BIN

3. LAYER OF NEWSPAPERS COVERS DRAINAGE HOLES IN TRAY

4. LIGHTLY WET NEWSPAPER

5. 10MM LAYER OF COMPOST ON NEWSPAPER

6.SHREDDED NEWSPAPER LAYER ON TOP OF COMPOST

7.BUY WORMS FROM GARDEN CENTRE, PLACE ON TOP OF NEWSPAPER

8.RECYCLE WORM PACKAGING

9. 1ST LAYER OF KITCHEN SCRAPS ON TOP

10. TRAY AT BASE OF WHEELIE BIN WITH LAYER OF CARDBOARD CARPET TO KEEP OUT LIGHT

GROWING TOMATOES FROM SEED

1. FILL SEED TRAY WITH POTTING COMPOST

2. DIVIDE SEEDS UP INTO TRAY CELLS

3. GENTLY BURY SEEDS JUST BELOW SURFACE

Nandor Tanczos interview part 1

Originally broadcast Tuesday 19th August. Nandor is a passionate and heartfelt speaker. He has plenty to say about life, the environment and how the economy is just like a plane or a helicopter really.

http://www.95bfm.com/default,188475.sm

Green Desk Garden Update 4

Seaweed

Packed with essential potassium, seaweed comes free to anyone with access to a beach – preferably after a storm when there’s generally more to be found. Under the Fisheries Act members of the public are entitled to collect as much beach-cast seaweed as they want for domestic use – ie. sticking it into your own garden. The minute anyone sells seaweed that they have collected they become liable to regulations, quotas and other such constraints because under the Fisheries Act this is seen to be a commercial enterprise. Be aware when you are collecting seaweed that is part of the natural environment and many small invertebrates – sand hoppers for instance – feed on it. On Stewart Island Kiwis (feathered ones) come down onto the beaches to feed on invertebrates that in turn are feeding on the seaweed. Seaweed gets blown up onto sand dunes and decomposes to provide nutrients for dunes grasses and other plants. If left to rot down on a beach then seaweed will release its nutrients which are effectively recycled back into the marine system. It is good to be respectful with the quantities you take and try to leave at least as much in any part of the beach as you take away.

You can spread seaweed in coils around the base of established trees and shrubs or chop it into small pieces which are more easily dug into garden beds for new plantings. Some folks like to make a brew with seaweed by first washing it and then stuffing it into a tub or barrel which is then filled with water. The seaweed festers over time (approx 6 months or sooner depending on temperatures) into a gelatinous liquid manure that works wonders when diluted with water. Seaweed is packed with micro-nutrients and natural plant hormones, it is also full of carbohydrates which are all good for plants and the essential micro-organisms that help form a healthy soil.

Storm damage

wind-blown lime tree

Hopefully we have seen the last of it but should you be concerned about potential damage that high winds can cause to delicate seedling plants try recycling plastic bottles. Cut the bottom off and take off the lid, place the bottle over the seedling plant, with its top upright, and hey-presto you have an instant cloche that will protect your developing plant and give it a warm and cosy little microclimate.

cosy little cloches

Use biodegradable garden twine – jute – to tie beans and peas to bamboo canes or whatever support you are using.

very secure peas

Soil is likely to be fairly water-logged so be patient before running out and digging on the first dry day. If you start working soil when it is too wet then you can actually do more harm than good by causing soil layers to compact. Above all don’t walk on your beds but if you absolutely have to try walking on a board laid across the soil to spread your weight.

take the weight off your garden

Cauliflowers and Broccoli.

Kim was wondering why her Cauliflower and Broccoli have not flowered yet. There are a few things that might be relevant here.

Cauliflowers and Broccoli like a sheltered, sunny position in the garden with a previously well-composted soil (ie. loads of well-rotted compost dug in a month or so before planting time. Part of the Brassica family they are hungry feeders and need a fertile, well-limed free draining soil for best results. Ideally soil pH should be between 6.5 and 7.5 (tending towards the alkaline) – you can get soil testing kits form garden centres for around $10 - $20.

Broccoli takes between 50 and 75 days to reach maturity depending on variety, soil type and general conditions as well as how well it is looked after.

There are three main groups of Cauliflowers:

1. Mini or baby cauliflowers which take between 2.5 to 3 months to mature.

2. Early maturing varieties such as ‘Phenomenal Early’ and ‘All Seasons’ which take from 3 to 4 months to mature. You want to avoid year-round varieties producing flower heads in the hotter months of summer as the heat and lack of water can over-stress them and give poor results. So look at maturing time when you plant and co-ordinate for slightly cooler months.

3. Slower maturing varieties like ‘Deepheart’ which can take up to 5 months to mature.

Kim’s Cauliflowers and Broccoli were planted in late May so Broccoli will hopefully be flowering within the next few weeks and Cauliflower in around a month. However the damage from slugs could well have been a factor in slowing the growth of these plants. Best to give a foliar feed of liquid seaweed directly onto the leaves and maybe mix some slow-release fertilliser granules or blood and bone meal with the soil around the base of the plant.

NB. If this extra feed is to work however then Kim has to sort out her slug problem -

How to take down a slug (alternatives to slug pellets)

Mano a mano.

Night patrols with a torch and a bucket to hand pick and dispose of culprits – you may be surprised just how many are feasting on your plants.

Intoxication

Saucers of beer (slug pubs) placed level with the soil which attract and deal to boozy gastropods

Fruit hotels

Hollowed-out grapefruit or orange halves placed face down on the ground like mini dome tents. Slugs will slither under these to hide from daylight and keep moist and cool so you can nab them and do what you will to them – maybe turn them out onto a bird table and create your own modern day gladiatorial Roman Ampitheatre as the birds get stuck in. (not for the faint-hearted).

Care of the ecosystem

As always balance your eradication with the needs of other creatures in your garden. Birds do love to eat slugs so, to keep your feathered friends around, makes sure that there are some slugs left behind during and after your short-term eradication program.