Packed with essential potassium, seaweed comes free to anyone with access to a beach – preferably after a storm when there’s generally more to be found. Under the Fisheries Act members of the public are entitled to collect as much beach-cast seaweed as they want for domestic use – ie. sticking it into your own garden. The minute anyone sells seaweed that they have collected they become liable to regulations, quotas and other such constraints because under the Fisheries Act this is seen to be a commercial enterprise. Be aware when you are collecting seaweed that is part of the natural environment and many small invertebrates – sand hoppers for instance – feed on it. On Stewart Island Kiwis (feathered ones) come down onto the beaches to feed on invertebrates that in turn are feeding on the seaweed. Seaweed gets blown up onto sand dunes and decomposes to provide nutrients for dunes grasses and other plants. If left to rot down on a beach then seaweed will release its nutrients which are effectively recycled back into the marine system. It is good to be respectful with the quantities you take and try to leave at least as much in any part of the beach as you take away.
You can spread seaweed in coils around the base of established trees and shrubs or chop it into small pieces which are more easily dug into garden beds for new plantings. Some folks like to make a brew with seaweed by first washing it and then stuffing it into a tub or barrel which is then filled with water. The seaweed festers over time (approx 6 months or sooner depending on temperatures) into a gelatinous liquid manure that works wonders when diluted with water. Seaweed is packed with micro-nutrients and natural plant hormones, it is also full of carbohydrates which are all good for plants and the essential micro-organisms that help form a healthy soil.
Storm damage
wind-blown lime tree
Hopefully we have seen the last of it but should you be concerned about potential damage that high winds can cause to delicate seedling plants try recycling plastic bottles. Cut the bottom off and take off the lid, place the bottle over the seedling plant, with its top upright, and hey-presto you have an instant cloche that will protect your developing plant and give it a warm and cosy little microclimate.
cosy little cloches
Use biodegradable garden twine – jute – to tie beans and peas to bamboo canes or whatever support you are using.
very secure peas
Soil is likely to be fairly water-logged so be patient before running out and digging on the first dry day. If you start working soil when it is too wet then you can actually do more harm than good by causing soil layers to compact. Above all don’t walk on your beds but if you absolutely have to try walking on a board laid across the soil to spread your weight.
take the weight off your garden
Cauliflowers and Broccoli.
Kim was wondering why her Cauliflower and Broccoli have not flowered yet. There are a few things that might be relevant here.
Cauliflowers and Broccoli like a sheltered, sunny position in the garden with a previously well-composted soil (ie. loads of well-rotted compost dug in a month or so before planting time. Part of the Brassica family they are hungry feeders and need a fertile, well-limed free draining soil for best results. Ideally soil pH should be between 6.5 and 7.5 (tending towards the alkaline) – you can get soil testing kits form garden centres for around $10 - $20.
Broccoli takes between 50 and 75 days to reach maturity depending on variety, soil type and general conditions as well as how well it is looked after.
There are three main groups of Cauliflowers:
1. Mini or baby cauliflowers which take between 2.5 to 3 months to mature.
2. Early maturing varieties such as ‘Phenomenal Early’ and ‘All Seasons’ which take from 3 to 4 months to mature. You want to avoid year-round varieties producing flower heads in the hotter months of summer as the heat and lack of water can over-stress them and give poor results. So look at maturing time when you plant and co-ordinate for slightly cooler months.
3. Slower maturing varieties like ‘Deepheart’ which can take up to 5 months to mature.
Kim’s Cauliflowers and Broccoli were planted in late May so Broccoli will hopefully be flowering within the next few weeks and Cauliflower in around a month. However the damage from slugs could well have been a factor in slowing the growth of these plants. Best to give a foliar feed of liquid seaweed directly onto the leaves and maybe mix some slow-release fertilliser granules or blood and bone meal with the soil around the base of the plant.
NB. If this extra feed is to work however then Kim has to sort out her slug problem -
How to take down a slug (alternatives to slug pellets)
Mano a mano.
Night patrols with a torch and a bucket to hand pick and dispose of culprits – you may be surprised just how many are feasting on your plants.
Intoxication
Saucers of beer (slug pubs) placed level with the soil which attract and deal to boozy gastropods
Fruit hotels
Hollowed-out grapefruit or orange halves placed face down on the ground like mini dome tents. Slugs will slither under these to hide from daylight and keep moist and cool so you can nab them and do what you will to them – maybe turn them out onto a bird table and create your own modern day gladiatorial Roman Ampitheatre as the birds get stuck in. (not for the faint-hearted).
Care of the ecosystem
As always balance your eradication with the needs of other creatures in your garden. Birds do love to eat slugs so, to keep your feathered friends around, makes sure that there are some slugs left behind during and after your short-term eradication program.
No comments:
Post a Comment